Francesca Bianchi's new Voluptuous Oud: A Sweet Twist on Classic Oud

I have never been fond of the Oud fragrances, but this one made me change my mind, with Francesca Bianchi going all in. It belongs in their Essentials line, and it is a combination of leathery and smoky notes with a distinctly fruity highlight of plum’s caramelized Oud. It is sweet, but not too much and there is something about it which feels really rich and sophisticated, yet a little fun at the same time – similar to having an exquisite cake that you did not want to have after your meal!

Starting it all off, we are welcomed with opening notes of bergamot and green tangy mandarin bringing along a fruity touch to the outset – quite the inviting note at the start of the party. Then, as it settles down, it seems to combine a hint of this mix of plum and heliotropin to give it a creamy and soft velour finish. The Oud from Cambodia is the star, but what supports this interpretation is the multilayered nature of leather and vetiver, which form a rich, deep base, enveloped in soft caramel and tolu balsam. This is complimented by a heavy, yet sultry fragrance that matches on your skin just perfectly, creating that warm embrace, while glancing at how the layers shimmer in beautiful elegance.

What I personally find striking is how it manages to even out the animalistic strength of Oud with that of a more gourmand angle. There’s this buttery richness that is reminiscent of Middle Eastern pastries, sweet, but not sickly. There is the leathery and smoky elements as well, but they are only sophisticated, and not abrasive. It is as if the Oud had gone through a separation and underwent a master class in gracefulness.